For something that is as straightforward and unmistakable as meat cooked with rice, we make such a song and dance about a biryani. Biryani, whether you like it or not, still remains one of the most contemplated, iconic and compared dish in Indian cuisine. I have participated in many discussions on whether biryani should be cooked in layers or with raw meat, whether it should contain potatoes, spices used whole, powdered or as bouillon garnish. Does the Chicken and Vegetarian Biryani have any defenses against the narrow-minded mutton-eating evaluators. And the conflict never ends. As far as I am concerned, I have already spent more than two and a half thousand words on biryani in the east and south of the country, while the west and north are still waiting to set in. So, now without burning the daylight, let me get to it.
I love biryani from western parts of India because I grew up in these parts. This is the food that my grandfather and I went to hunt in the narrow streets of Nal Bazaar and Islampura in Mumbai. In fact, this is the first meal that I, at the age of 12, went out and ate alone and paid for out of my own pocket, albeit from my treasured weekly allowance given to me by my mother.
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irani biryani
Don’t be fooled by the name, it is a name by which I am calling this biryani. This is a one-of-a-kind biryani that you can eat at Irani cafes in Mumbai and Pune. Irani Cafe Whether it is a Parsi Irani-owned restaurant or a Muslim Irani-owned restaurant, Biryani is pretty much the same. The rice is half white and half yellow and the pieces of flesh, juicy and tender, look as if they were added at the last minute. There is no correlation between the two, and both rice and meat are cooked separately, and placed in two separate pots, only mixed together on a plate. Like mixing a bowl of rice and mutton masala before serving. Delicious when you are hungry, quite a popular one but definitely not Biryani.
Kutchi-Memon Biryani
Kutchi Lambs migrated from Sindh to Kutch in Gujarat in the 15th century and their cuisine has been influenced by Arabs as well as from the areas in what is now Pakistan. Their food is aromatic, mildly spicy and subtly likable as is their biryani. What makes this biryani different from others is the minimal use of oil and spices. Rice and meat are enhanced with green chilies, chopped tomatoes and lemon juice. The community is a well-bred business community and can afford the luxury of saffron in biryani and hence, when invited to a kutchi-memon, you will always find biryanis infused with saffron color and aroma. The masala never overpowers the rice and this biryani is the least greasy of them all.
Sindhi Biryani
Sindhi Biryani has everything like Kutchi-Memon Biryani, but over the years it has been embellished and enriched by Sindh (now in Pakistan) and culture. It is slightly more spicy than most of the biryanis as rice has the highest proportion of spices. While in most of the biryanis the meat is marinated in plain curd or curd, in Sindhi biryani the meat is marinated in sour or sour curd and is heavily spiced with garam masalas as well as chillies.
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So, on the one hand, you get floral notes of star anise, black and green cardamom, and on the other, sour curd and tomato flavours. What sets Sindhi biryani apart from most other biryanis is the ber or aloo-bukhara which is mixed with caramelized onions to add a certain sweetness to it. A mix of sweet, sour and spicy flavors make this biryani a strong and flavourful dish.
Mumbai Biryani
And finally, the biryani that I love the most is Mumbai Biryani. I have had many battles over which is the best biryani in the world, and for me, the argument always results in Bombay biryani. I think more than the real merits of Bombay Biryani, it’s because that’s the flavor I grew up with, and I’m totally biased and totally biased. This is a solid good biryani – basmati rice, dipped in spices, with oil-soaked potatoes, onions and tender meat. But quite spicy with the pungency and vigor of the spice which might be overwhelming for some. Oily, spicy, with mild notes of sweetness and sourness, embellished with nuts and raisins and served with a fruitiness. That is my biryani, whatever anyone may say.
Kunal Vijaykar is a food writer based in Mumbai. He tweets @kunalvijayakar and can be followed on Instagram @kunalvijayakar. What is the name of his youtube channel? The views expressed in this article are those of the author and do not represent the stand of this publication.
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