What the Fork: Kunal Vijaykar serves up his favorite haunt of 2021 with a delicious hope for 2022

what the fork

As I write this, there is a huge dilemma about what the coming few weeks have in store for us. Will this new lineage of viruses destabilize our sovereignty to be able to live our lives the way we want to? Will we be able to walk, talk, meet and eat without any restrictions? And by eating, I mean, go out and go to a restaurant. The last charge of the virus really took its toll on the restaurant. I was told that after the unexpected first lockdown, about 20% of all hospitality establishments are not fully open yet. About 30% of all restaurants and hotels have closed permanently, and of those that have opened, up to 50% are making losses.

Battling these bitter, almost tragic circumstances, restaurants still stood firm, stood tall and still applied the creativity and style to reinvent, reopen, sustain and launch some great places to eat. Done, and I still managed to eat some really amazing meals in 2021. So as the end of 2021 draws near, here is a list of my favorite places I ate in 2021. Some new, some old, but all worth it.

Market

I start with zucchini in Bandra. This Latino-Asian restaurant is furnished with Persian rugs, boasts a great outdoor area, amps up the guest list and serves a mind-boggling fusion of South American and Southeast Asian cuisine. Flavors from Thailand and Peru come together in the form of sushi, sliders, dim sum, carpaccio and ceviche.

Kima

I’ve always loved places al-fresco, and I’ve always complained that Mumbai didn’t have open-to-the-sky restaurants where the food was good and the nights were long. Perhaps it is the oppressive Mumbai heat that discourages it. But, Kaima is an all-day casual dining and bar, with cabanas and alfresco dining under a gazebo and a menu of Mediterranean and Asian cuisine.

Salmon is great with truffle cream cheese and jalapeno sushi, Philly Cheese Dim Sum, Local Style Chili Chicken with Manto Steamed Buns, Fiery Wonton Nachos for Dessert, and Lemongrass Creme Brulee, with a glass in one hand and a loved one in the other Hand.

Magazine St. Cafe

One of my favorite restaurateurs, Gauri Devidayal, whose Colaba eatery The Table is one of Mumbai’s finest dine-ins, launched Magazine Street Kitchen, the city’s first experimental kitchen space, in Mumbai’s Old Dock area. As a tribute to the fine work done there, they have opened Mag St Cafe in a quaint and familiar location in a Colaba street.

A lockdown project, Mag St Cafe is easygoing, casual and stylish with a menu that echoes exactly that approach. Crusty bread, custom-made pizza, Asian curries, salads, gourmet sandwiches, smoothies, and great coffee and desserts.

sete mara

From the Levantine kitchens of Greece, Turkey, Egypt, Morocco, Lebanon, Persia and Georgia, St. Regis, Mumbai boasts of Mediterranean and Arabic cuisine to mara settee. There’s ‘The Cold Kitchen’ and ‘The Hot Kitchen’, which offer crunchy tossed salads, traditional mezzes such as hummus beruti with paprika, parsley and toasted cumin, and hummus with pine nuts, avocado and za’atar and luscious muhammara Phenicia, Labneh, Taltauri.

Kachapuri, a classical Georgian boat-shaped cheese bread with a variety of stuffing. Big plates like salt-baked whole seabass, Israeli cous cous, and moussaka. And then time-honored Eastern open charcoal grill foods like chard baby aubergine, za’atar roasted spatchcock, jujeh kebabs and other wonderful charred meats.

Cold

Speaking of which, I searched for Zima in Bandra online and then never stopped ordering from them. It is also a Mediterranean place. It’s a good price, and the food is great. My favorite is their Lentil Soup with Lemon and Tomatoes, Radish Purslane and a Fresh Vinaigrette, Hummus Bill Lahm, a creamy hummus with a creamy hummus with fried loin and small pieces of pine nuts, and my favorite, Kafta Lahm, A Lamb Mince, Onion and Parsley Kebabs, and Dynamite Shrimp.

breath please

It’s almost impossible to find good French food in Mumbai, and then I discovered the soufflé cole vous plate. It’s been there for a while, but I didn’t go down there to go.

(Photo Credits: Kunal Vijaykar)

On good old Churchgate, the very familiar street we grew up on, a cheerful gleaming indoor space with curb-side seating, a brightly lit well-endowed bar, complete with sumptuous Art Deco chandeliers. Young Chef Vidit Ehren creates meaty, intense French Onion Soup, Chicken Liver Parfaits, Baked Cheese Souffles, Petit Dinner Rolls with Organic Raw Honey Roast, Duck Confit, Sea Bass la Marseille and Steak Frites. Peace Day Resistance is definitely the ultimate, dessert. Lalit, moist, drunken Baba and Raham.

These were some of the highlights of my favorite meals in 2021. You can see that I have not mentioned any Indian or Chinese location. It’s just because no Indian or Chinese place came for me this year.

But I hope; Hopefully we will win and so will the food. So, good luck, happy new year and may you always be hungry for great food. Bonne Anne and Bon Appetite.

Kunal Vijaykar is a food writer based in Mumbai. He tweets @kunalvijayakar and can be followed on Instagram @kunalvijayakar. What is the name of his youtube channel? The views expressed in this article are those of the author and do not represent the stand of this publication.

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