Last Update: January 29, 2023, 6:11 pm IST
The Cartier Panthere worn by Anant Ambani on his engagement has its roots in Paris, beginning with a woman named Jeanne Toussaint. Parisian style icon joins luxury brand Cartier circa 1913
There is a rich history behind the creation of the Cartier Panther brooch, which is also shared by the British royal family.
When Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant got engaged on January 19, all eyes were on the couple and their stunning outfits. While the bride-to-be looked beautiful in a gold silk tissue ghagra and matching blouse and dupatta, the groom opted for a navy blue kurta. However, what caught people’s attention was not the clothes but the brooch Anant was wearing. In the shape of a panther, it looked like a piece of a royal gem and it is. The Cartier Panther Brooch is like no other piece of jewellery. There is a rich history behind its construction, which is also shared by the British royal family, most notably the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. Here’s what you need to know about this extraordinary brooch:
Original
Cartier Panthere has its roots in Paris, starting with a woman named Jeanne Toussaint. The Parisian style icon joined the luxury brand Cartier around 1913. Since becoming acquainted with the French jeweler Louis Cartier, she earned the nickname “La Panthere” from him. The iconic jewelry motif was born when Toussaint saw a panther in the jungle while on safari with Louis Cartier.
In 1914, the famous motif first appeared on a Cartier wristwatch. As expected, the jewelery splurged on the signature pattern of Diamond and Ebony. This inspired Cartier to incorporate the panther motif into its jewellery. Similarly, he was admired in the elite class. Louis Cartier was not only the first jeweler to incorporate the panther motif as a trademark, but he was also the first jeweler to use platinum in his creations.
duchess of windsor
In 1948, Edward VIII, the Duke of Windsor, commissioned the first three-dimensional Cartier Panthere for his wife, the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. The iconic piece was created using a 116.74-carat emerald from the Duke’s collection. This was no ordinary piece. The motif was in gold and onyx and was located just above the huge stone. Needless to say, the Duchess of Windsor loved the iconic motif. A year later the couple commissioned another Cartier brooch. In fact, he bought a total of six additional Panther designs. Most famous is the pave diamond and sapphire panther brooch, set atop a 152.35-carat amethyst cabochon, and an onyx and diamond panther bracelet.
today’s panther brooch
Cartier’s official website features the iconic Panthere de Cartier brooch made of 18 ct white gold. It is studded with 1.04 carats of 2 emeralds, onyx and 159 brilliant-cut diamonds. The motif with a width of 9.65 mm and a length of 65 mm is priced around Rs 19 lakh.
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